It's not hard to guess why Surrey Quays is called that. The Surrey Docks which are just off the main roads were built along the former Kent and Surrey border, and fell within the latter county. The first commercial docks were opened in the 17th century, on what was then marshland, over time becoming a key trade hub. With increased trade with the Baltics for timber, the area around it soon quickly expanded, taking up nearly 2 square km. Eventually, following the bombing of the area in World War 2, the docks were closed by 1970 and the land became derelict, leaving many housing estates behind. Come the 1980s, though, and much like Canary Wharf just north of the river, regeneration began, and Surrey Quays is probably much nicer than it was back then (more on Surrey Quays here).
There's a shopping centre and bus station, with a large park bordering it. Pockets of green space occupy sections around the busy roads, and cranes continue building more and more flats. Perhaps the area itself is overshadowed by the nearby Canada Water, once itself a minor dock in the region, which also has the Jubilee line running through it (Surrey Quays only has the Overground). But Surrey Quays itself isn't all that bad if you're walking through it - which is what I did recently.
Albeit, that's all I did, because I didn't intend to go to Surrey Quays. I was heading to and from a Millwall match with my dad instead, and there wasn't too much time to go and spend enough time in the area. However, I decided to mention Surrey Quays anyways, because why not? And reading about the region's history, I think I'll write a longer piece in the future.
To get to Millwall's stadium, The Den, from here, it's just a series of side roads, bridges and footpaths before you're there. Exiting Surrey Quays station, passing the pub and noticing the police officers standing by the road, spotting the number 1 bus (running to Hampstead Heath), various council estates on all sides. Continuing straight down Oldfield Grove, walking parallel to the railways - once the East London line, now part of the Overground (and soon to be the Windrush line). Soon, it forks with trains continuing either towards New Cross or Peckham; there's an infrastructure facility by the rails, and rows of houses opposite. What's not so obvious is that, where the railway splits, you cross another border - Surrey Quays is in Southwark, and what could be described as South Bermondsey is in Lewisham.
As you continue, the area takes on a more industrial feel; the Overground carries on running, a power plant and recycling centre can be seen in the distance. More railways pass over you - first the Greenwich line, then the much longer South Eastern Main Line. The viaducts are filled with graffiti and the many fans heading to the match, and some are exercising and playing in a basketball court. By now, the side road has become a footpath.
And then The Den becomes noticeable. It's been Millwall's home ground since 1993, having replaced a previous Den which was just a few streets away and closer to New Cross. This was in part due to the Taylor Report, published in the aftermath of the Hillsborough disaster, which meant all clubs had to have all-seater stadiums.
If things went differently, Millwall could be playing in Kent, had Lewisham been able to forcefully buy out the land as part of a development. Alternatively, if I was writing this over a hundred years ago, Millwall would have been playing up in...Millwall. Then known as the Millwall Rovers and later Millwall Athletic, they played in four stadia now demolished and replaced by a pub and park, amongst other things. But they've been in South London for the hundred years since.
The stadium is partly covered with adverts for a scaffolding company, and a vendor sells pin badges just outside the entrance - a more humble first impression than I got with Selhurst Park. There are four stands - the Dockers Stand is the closest, and has the blue bus bar adjacent to it. The North Stand, for visiting fans, is to the left, and the Cold Blow Lane Stand (named for the road where the old Den stood) is to the right. The Barry Kitchener Stand (named for the man who played for them 602 times) is opposite the Dockers Stand, and has the railways passing behind it.
I've already blogged about the Millwall matchday experience, and most of it (including the horse-backed police and constant chanting) was the same. Instead, here's a haiku:
Playing Birmingham,
Too timid to try and shoot,
Yet still won 1-0.
And a ninetieth minute winner to boot, and five points clear of the dropzone. And though this was only the fifth game I watched this season, I've witnessed a different manager in charge in four of those games.
I was hoping to head down to New Cross after this, but instead we headed back to Surrey Quays. Still, I can't be too upset.
Millwall - Leeds blogpost can be found here.
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