Distant Day Out - Leeds (Part 1)

It might surprise you, Honourable Reader, to know that the furthest northern point in England where I had travelled to, before going to Leeds, was in Norfolk. However, when Millwall were drawn away to Leeds United in the FA Cup, I had to go. I could only do so when tickets were sorted out, but they were and so I went.

Leeds is one of the largest cities in the UK, and I didn't know what to expect. I'd been told that I would enjoy it, but considering its size it's also not a city you hear of much on the news - so I largely went in blind. Leeds did feel rather empty when I visited, despite it being a Saturday morning, which is when I'd expect cities to be quite vibrant; however, the place itself is quite wonderful.

City Square

The city is a wonderful mix, architecturally, deviating between Gothic and glass as you walk down the street. This is mainly because Leeds only truly began to grow from a market town to a key part of British industry following its involvement in the wool trade in the 16th century, and the building of factories in the 19th when the railways arrived. Hence the influence of its Victorian legacy is clear to see, along with the subsequent soulless modernising of building exteriors.

The City Square is the first place you'll see when you exit the station, having had all cars stripped from it last year. At its centre is the former General Post Office, created by Sir Henry Tanner and built in 1896, and which is now a restaurant. It's surrounded by various statues, notably of engineer James Watt, cloth merchant John Harrison, and Edward the Black Prince on horseback, as well as eight lamp-holding nymphs. The more dull 1 City Square can also be seen from the square, it being a cylinder full of offices that doesn't strike one's imagination.

Art galleries

Heading north to Victoria Square, I was able to see the Victorian exteriors of the Leeds Art Gallery, and how they differ to the black surfaced Henry Moore Institute. A Moore sculpture resides on a plinth outside the gallery, which is suitable considering Moore himself was from Yorkshire. 

I even had time to visit the Henry Moore Institute, which is currently holding a free exhibition called The Traumatic Surreal (open until 16th March). If you're expecting abstract reclining figures and hollow shapes, then you'd be deeply disappointed. This exhibit contained lots of art by female German surrealists, with the sculptures intending to critique and subvert patriarchal constructions of women as ‘objects’, so says the institute's website.

The artwork includes a mould of breasts with one sliced by a knife, another portrays a dog with spewing intestines, and there's a television with the same short clips repeated in succession. Notice the feathers, cages, and mechanics, the exhibition's guidebook stated. It's one of those divisive exhibits where half the audience will feel enlightened, the other will moan that it's all nonsense, yet at least its name was completely correct. 

The institute is connected up a staircase and through some doors to Leeds Art Gallery, which has fine paintings if you prefer a more classical approach to art. Some of it is quite pastoral, perhaps of a past Leeds, whilst other paintings are based on religion. Outside the two buildings lies Leeds's very own ferris wheel, the Leeds Wheel of Light - though it stood mostly untouched and unlit, this being a Saturday morning.

Leeds Cathedral

Not too far from the galleries lies Leeds Cathedral, which is in honour of St Anne. It was built in 1838, in part due to large Irish migration sparking the need for a new Catholic church in the area. Indeed, St Anne's Church only became a cathedral in 1878 when the Diocese of Leeds was formed. What's curious, however, is that the cathedral that currently stands in Leeds has only stood here since 1904, as the original was demolished due to the Leeds Corporation having different plans for the area. It certainly looks quite lovely, with its large crucifix and Victorian stylings, though it's also clearly more modern than the other cathedrals that I have visited, what with its brick structure instead of stone - at first glance, I didn't think this was the cathedral. Either way, it was closed when I arrived, so unfortunately I can't comment on its interior, though images suggest it's magnificent.

Leeds City Museum

Even the local museum wasn't open at 10am, though that didn't stop a large Miffy costume from standing outside by the entrance. Miffy, as in the cartoon bunny which is having an exhibition at the museum in honour of its 70th birthday. It was a baffling sight, though understandable as the exhibit was only two days old at this point. Otherwise, I can't say much about the museum aside from the fact that it's lovely on the outside, with golden ornament on the brick-framed windows. 

Not too far from the museum is Leeds Civic Hall, which is where the council can be found. It's quite tremendous in its sheer scale, flanked by two clocks, tall spires, and Greek exterior, with columns and pediment. It was constructed in 1933, replacing the original Leeds Town Hall, and is a clear architectural highlight of the city. It was also closed for access, with fences blocking any entry or close approach, unfortunately. 

The River Aire

Part of the reason why Leeds developed so much during the Industrial Revolution was the water supply from the Aire, which itself is a tributary of the longer Ouse. In 1816, Leeds was connected to Liverpool via canal, so found itself connected to two major ports to the west and east. This, along with its coal deposits, only benefitted the area economically, and it's no surprise that Leeds became the largest city in Yorkshire, a title it still holds today.

As the Aire passes through the city, there are sections which have been canalised. In fact, the river seems to split semi-permanently into two as it flows through Leeds, before merging towards Kirkstall, and I'm not sure which strand is the river's main course. 

I suspect a strand of canal flows underneath the station, which does add to a rather unusual entrance where you get to cross a river and spot the city peering in from a tunnel. There's another, more standard section, which I found walking by an Asda.

Epilogue

Even if Leeds felt rather empty considering its grandness, it's still a rather stunning city to walk around. It's worth noting, admittedly, that I only saw a small fraction of the town centre and not much else on my visit - yet what I did see was certainly quite pleasing. I will add that my experience of Leeds was also influenced by the fact that I came here to watch Millwall, which explains why I've mostly focused on Leeds's western half

Interesting article on Leeds's history by the Aireborough Civic Society