Distant Day Out - Chelmsford

My dad had to go to Chelmsford for work, he asked me if I wanted to join him. I said sure, why not, so we went visiting Chelmsford for a bit afterwards.

Chelmsford's very much a commuter town; it's 50km from central London, and about half an hour out from London by train. It's therefore especially easy to just ignore it if you're ever planning a day out, not least as it almost looks isolated from any other cities on a map. Yet that doesn't make Chelmsford dull, in fact parts of it are actually quite pretty, especially when the sun's out and the weather's nice.

Chelmsford also happens to be quite prestigious. It's a city, it has been since 2012, making it one of only three cities in Essex. It also doubles as Essex's county town, so you'll find countless council buildings scattered around the city centre here. It's had royal connections under King Henry VIII, who built Beaulieu Palace here for his second wife, Anne Boleyn. It's definitely worth checking out, at least for a while - Chelmsford is rather charming.

Radio and the Marconi Company

Chelmsford's real claim to fame comes through radio innovation. You see, Guglielmo Marconi, who's been credited for inventing the radio, set up the world's first wireless factory in Chelmsford in 1898, with the intent "of using Hertzian waves for telegraphy between two places not connected by an electrical conductor", or more simply, using radio waves to communicate. Initially, Marconi and his workers created SOS equipment for ships which proved crucial in saving survivors in the Titanic and Lusitania sinkings many years later.

The Marconi New Street Works

Soon, though, Marconi's operations had significantly expanded, and so by 1912, a new factory was built - the New Street Works were the world's first purpose-built wireless factory. Here, the first ever radio broadcast in Britain (for public entertainment) was transmitted in 1920 - just a few arias by Dame Nellie Melba. But it was this transmission, combined with Marconi establishing a radio station in nearby Writtle in 1922, which led to the founding of the BBC that same year.

The New Street Works still stand to this day, I'm not sure about the very first factory, but sadly they've been empty since 2008. I find that unfortunate, since it's magnificent in scale, and looks luxurious on the outside, too - at first glance, I thought it might be a hotel. As for Marconi's original company, it's not operated for almost two decades now. Yet their legacy remains, and Chelmsford is undoubtedly right in calling itself the "birthplace of the radio".

Chelmsford Cathedral

Not far from the city centre, you'll find supposedly the second smallest cathedral in England, and it's adorable. It wasn't initially a cathedral, back when it was built in 1200 it was merely the Church of St Mary the Virgin. But in 1914, it was upgraded to cathedral status with the formation of the Diocese of Chelmsford, which explains why it's not particularly grand nor imposing. 

 

It's incredibly charming though - you can cover most of the cathedral grounds in a matter of minutes, all whilst taking in the wonderful stained glass windows and lovely altar. In the main entrance, you might notice some glass painted in American insignia, in thanks to "tasks and friendships shared" with US forces stationed during World War II. The outdoor gardens are also pleasant to walk around, with all the vibrant trees this time of year. It's an incredibly quaint cathedral, I'm glad I visited.

    

If that didn't intrigue you, apparently Jethro Tull, as in prog rock legends Jethro Tull, will be performing here in a Christmas concert later this year, and alright it's the middle of June, it's too early to even think about Christmas. But it's Jethro Tull, even I had to take a second glance. 

Shire Hall

You'll find countless council buildings, all vague tints of brutalist grey, but the coolest of them must be Shire Hall, with its sleek Georgian exterior. Built in 1791, the hall replaced an older court house that had stood here since the 15th century. That old court house is where one of the first executions for witchcraft was held, curiously enough, when Agnes Waterhouse was hanged in Tindal Square in 1566. Her crime was sending a cat, reportedly her familiar, to harm her neighbour's goods, along with other absurd accusations that were common in witch trials. Come to think of it, that's probably why there was a lamppost describing the witch trials not too far from the square.

    

Otherwise, Shire Hall's been empty since 2012, with the occasional lease of life whenever a show wants a court house set; Mr Bates vs the Post Office, a drama about the Post Office Horizons scandal, is a recent example. Now the council wants to use it to house restaurants and office space, reportedly, which I guess is better than leaving it empty for another fourteen years.

The two rivers

Chelmsford has two rivers - the Can, passing through the west, and Chelmer, to the east. The former was the site of Chelmsford's initial development as a town, when a local bishop bridged the Can in 1100 and restored a Roman road that used to pass through. You'll find the Can in the Central Park, a lovely green space I'd have spent more time in if I could. Hidden behind a bypass, it's also near Essex County Cricket Club's ground. 

The Can

I'd also like to give a quick sidenote to the Chelmsford Viaduct, which threads its way through the park. Built in 1842 for trains passing from London to Norwich, it boasts eighteen arches and looks stunning. It's also especially awkward since it means if you're walking along the bypass, the viaduct blocks one side of the pavement, so you have to walk all the way around. 

Funnily enough, the Chelmer isn't the origin for the name Chelmsford, rather it's the other way round. You'll find the Chelmer weaving its way through the city not too far from the Can, hidden behind the trees and past a leisure centre, with the occasional swan in its waters. I even managed to find a swan guarding three ducklings whilst they washed by the banks; there were loads of onlookers, and I was brave enough to come up somewhat close to them. I am slightly terrified of swans, so I didn't go further than I could have.

   

Chelmsford Market

Finally, I'd like to mention the market where Chelmsford became a town. King John signed a charter letting Chelmsford host a market in 1196, giving it town status, and it's only grown in importance since. The market's still around, and whilst I didn't buy anything, it looked alright. Considering how close it is to the main high street and shopping centre, it's doing alright for itself.

 

Epilogue

Another notable Chelmsford fact I have to mention is it played a significant role in the Peasants' Revolt in 1381. Several peasants set off for London from various towns, passing through Chelmsford on the way at the beginning of the uprising, and after managing to fight off the rebellion in London, King Richard II moved over to Chelmsford himself to try and do the same. For about a week, the government was effectively located in Chelmsford, so in that time, Chelmsford was effectively the capital of England. 

Otherwise, if I had more time, I'd have visited Springfield Lock, which is reportedly lovely, as well as the Chelmsford Museum itself. But on the whole, I'm pleased with my trip to Chelmsford - long enough that I got a decent impression of the city, and managed to see some cool sights along the way. Not bad for a place Charles Dickens considered "the dullest and most stupid place on Earth". It's somewhat better than that, I promise.

Bond Street, Chelmsford

Speaking of which, I'd love to hear your feedback and opinions about this post. Have you ever been to Chelmsford? Are you into witchcraft or the radio, and never knew they originated here? Leave me a comment, or, better yet, send me an email direct! :D